I have the plywood cube kit, bought from Amazon.
I would like to implement a heated bed, to make it easier to print with ABS or PETG. In order to do so, I am guessing that the Marlin firmware would need to be told that there’s a thermistor for the hotbed so that it can control it. There appears to be all the connections on the motherboard for a heated bed, but I don’t know if the provisions are there in the firmware. Also, while on the topic of firmware, a maximum temperature of 245C causing the machine to shut down and need to be reset makes me a little crazy when trying to work with ABS, which I’d like to extrude at 240 deg C. (Even using the built in Preheat ABS in the Prepare menu will cause this more often than not. I’d like to bump that parameter up, but the UI won’t allow me to set it higher than 245.)
So for construction of a heated bed, there are a couple of issues. One is the heated bed itself. The print surface for this seems to be very specifically formed to allow the 3 point leveling, and I’d like to preserve this. I can think of 2 ways to do this with a new bed. Sink the heated bed into a formed platform which matches the original shape of the one that comes with the kit. This seems pretty straightforward, and given the dimensions of a heated bed that I can buy (275mm X 220mm, 220mm X 220mm, or 300mm X 220mm) this is possible, as all will fit within the Y axis. This is probably going to be my approach, to make the platform, copying the original shape, with some rare earth magnets fit in the original configuration unless I just include mounting bolts/springs to the aluminum platform. Alternately, raised platforms could be made for the 3 Z probe locations, and then set a negative offset, which it seems happy to allow.
I’m also concerned about the power supply. The included 24V power supply is rated for 5A, which ought to be plenty adequate for the hotend and motors. Hot beds are usually ~40W or so, which is another 2A demand. Probably it’s not too much of an issue once it’s reached temperature, but I like to plan for worse case. A hotbed controller and separate power supply is an ugly solution, but one that I would probably be willing to tolerate, as I don’t plan on the printer moving around much from its regular home.