Well, I’ve taken my first steps.
I’ve gone through the easy stuff, and compiled and uploaded Marlin 1.1.8 with the configuration information that I know. Bed size, steps/mm, and I think that I have the 3 point bed leveling configured, though that… remains to be seen. I’m also not sure how the offset configuration and Z homing will work until I physically change out the control board. I think that I have the endstop logic configured correctly.
I have it configured for the RepRap Discount controller, so that should work the same. It looks like the GEN v1.4 is a little longer a board than the GEN-L, but I think that 2 of the mount points may be the same relative tot he USB port, so I might be able to just drill 2 new mount holes and still use the USB opening in the side of the printer. (Good news for when it’s time to try re-compiling the firmware!)
I’ve verified that I can connect to the new board via PronterFace, so the firmware is definitely running, and can accept commands.
When I ordered the board, I neglected to order new stepper drivers. I do have a set on my old RAMPS board, which I’ll just have to transfer over, and re-set the driver current.
I’ve been thinking of what to do with the heated bed.
I definitely want one, but I don’t think that the included power supply is adequate to supply for it.
I have 3 actual heated beds to choose from. One is a 200mmX200mm Mk3 bed that can be configured for 12V or 24V input (Currently configured for 12V, as it was for my I3 clone build, but I could change that in a few minutes with a soldering iron.) Mostly, I don’t want to use this because it would restrict my available build area. I have 2 more that are 220mm by 275mm. One is 12V and the other is 24V. I think that what I’m going to do is use the 12V one. In order to do this, I planned to use an external MOSFET and then re-use the 12V power supply from my I3. I think that this will require the bed heater to be configured in bang bang mode, which is a little bit sub-optimal, but allows me to save the additional 24V supply and 24V heated bed for my other printer build, which is what I plan to use the Duet Wifi controller board with. I think that this allows me the most effective use of the resources that I have available. It may mean that the configuration that I upload here when I’m done will need some changes for other people, but then other people may not want the heated bed, they may just want to be able to upgrade to a newer firmware with the same physical features. After all, the printer itself seems to be reasonably good.