Hi I have now tested one day of my new MBot Grid II+ printer. In this point I have hit to several issues:
- By default printer language is chinese not english and if you do not understand china it is quite hard to change it.
- There is no leveling routine in menu
- in SD card there is only leveling routine for dual head printer
3.1) I tried order dual head printer but mbot team refuse to sell it because there is some “unsolved problems”
- I got link to routine from forum http://forums.mbot3d.com/uploads/default/70/b8d630cda2d9fd10.gcode but it also give warning that it is only for dual head printer.
- that table is so twisted that is is impossible to calibrate it because even you get corners to level there is areas what are so offset that it will print to air and filament does not trap to it.
- if you cancel printing printer does not reset to zero position.
- there is no reset to zero position in menu
- that “new high quality table” what “does not need” heat bed just does not wok with ABS. Some areas it stuck so hard that you cannot remove it without damaging table and to some areas it just does not stuck at all.
- there is no download for Grid II+ manual at http://www.mbot3d.com/software (there is just for older non + model)
- these older models manual download links at same page does not work from finland (poor server?)
- some times when you cancel printing from mprint 1.0.2 it get stuck so that this print dialog is still on right bottom corner of software and you must close and open that software again
- if you save stl file from autodesk inventor and open it in mprint it will be in 0.1x scale so you need rescale it to 10x so it is back in original scale.
- mbot own abs filament reel was taped with sticker what sticks so tightly at filament that I had very hard time to clean that filament from that sticker glue and pieces.
Also there is some lacks what are not real problems but clearly need improvement:
- that roll interface is hard to use if we compare to 5 button interface. It just roll too easy when you try press it
- there is no way to upload files from mprint or replicatiorG to SD card. You must remove card and copy files to it and then put card to back.
- that roll holder needs filament guide because filament jumps out of spool really easily.
- with smaller calibration screws you will get more accurate calibration
So at that point I must say that I am not happy at all to that device. But I am very hopeful that Magicfirm team can solve these problems soon. I think most of these things are possible to fix at software updates. That table is most probably just dead idea at start and need replace with heatbed.
Ah I also noted now that I Use 1.0.3 beta software. So I add two new issues:
14) Mprint 1.0.3 shows 1.0.2 version in about screen.
15) Table material cannot stand heat of ABS. With mbot official ABS, standard mprint settings that table got melted from points where extruder initialy land near table and also point where it stops because I press cancel from mprint. So this is relative with note 6 and 8
Currently printer is totally unusable with ABS, partially unusable with PLA (I cannot print large things because issue 5.). I had open ticket and posted that theread. No answer from ticket or to this thread. Also I had not got refund of dualhead to single head change what you promise. Because paypal dispute time is runnign out I had dispute that. I understand that there had been christmas time and new year but still I had not get any response from you.
thanks for your feedback very much ,that will help us a lot !
it’s just that I’m out on business trip now ,after I have come back I will check all this problems ,and answer you one by one in details .
the calibration problem ,I have answered you through Zendesk ,you can have a check .sorry for keep you waiting so long
Yes that your answer for calibration problem did not help because you just send instructions. Problem is not that I dont know howto calibrate. Problem is that you calibration routines are rubbish and table magnets are misaligned.
I answer to sunny with that video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-A-kv8Lf3yA&list=UUtIg6vv8El2wYoSiNzLSA3Q
It is made with http://forums.mbot3d.com/uploads/default/70/b8d630cda2d9fd10.gcode
Because you now instruct to use that script in sd card I will make video from it. It also says that it is dual head printer and my printer is single head. Anyway that your another routine land to back left corner. That original routine land to front right corner to table. Not to hole in table. There is video with that orifinal dual head routine what is in sd card http://youtu.be/m96NRpmS3Lk note I did not screw back nobs because point is not on them currently. Also I cancel that routine because I did not want damage that printer any more.
same problem that in http://youtu.be/m96NRpmS3Lk it will land extruder to table (not to hole) at front right corner. That whole table is 3mm too front?
Hi Tapsa, let me try to help you, can you give me the approximate different distance between extruder and each hole on the bed when you run calibration script?
(X is left and right: if extruder is on the left of the hole and it need to move 1cm to the right in order to be at the hole - it will be +1cm and if the extruder is on the right and need to move to the left - it will be -1cm)
Use this script to test and let me know for each holes (front , left back and right back) what should be the adjusted distance
I tired manually change offset with installing spacer to limit switch. Looks that table is too much offset so exruder rack will hit front of frame before I get it front enough
Please try my calibration script , it should not damage your machine as the extruder wont homing Z
I tried but I mean that it is impossible to drive head so front of printer that it fit to hole because head physical movement range does not reach to hole. Even with jog I cannot run head position where it fit. It just hit to front wall first.
Tapsa, in case you want to use the printer while waiting for replacement part to ship -
- you can manually level the bed by using paper and jog mode to try to level the bed as flat as you can
- after that you go to “home offsets” menu and go to Z offset - see what is the number is (it is -1.xx)
you can try at -1.70mm first and then run a print job and see if the extruder and bed distance is ok or not - if it is too far apart, you can change the number to be -1.60mm and keey repeating till you can get good gap.
(PS. Home position Z = 0 as the bed is moving down it will become negative untill -190mm so Z offset will tell printer to move down build plate by that number before it start printing)
Thank you. I actually did it already manually
Tapsa, just to be sure, as I’m not sure which is the issue. My Printer came with wrongly connected “end of axes” sensor, so the print head could slam into the Frame. May be that coudl be an issue here. If not, sorry
I know quite well. Axis and script is ok but problem is that bed it self is offset so that is is not at physical axis range. It is so front that extruder just cannot reach to front hole because it hit front wall before it can hit to hole. When I have new bed then it also fix that problem.
ah, ok. it’s the bed. I understood the Extruder would “drive” to far to the front. Then it would be something either with the calibration or with the axis end Switches. Sorry;-)
Thank you very much. I’ve been trying to get the right distance between the extruder and table for a while now. No matter what I used during the leveling process. a piece of paper, a business card or a credit card seemed to be the right distance and the extruder was too close to the table for the first pass and would block it. So if I’m translating this right I go to the offsets and bring the table down till it puts a good layer down that sticks and I’m all set?
Yes but make small incremental changes to make sure you don’t crash the head into the build plate.